Coastline of Somalia
After leaving the airport we got in a cab and Bamidele requested that we drive along the coast before going to the Ambassador Hotel in Hargeisa (Somalia has more coastline than any other African country). The driver warned us that only 12% of Somalian roads are paved, and that the ride may be a little bumpy. We said we had no problem with that, seeing as how we had already driven on numerous unpaved roads the past few days.
As we drove, I realized just how right Bamidele was; those beaches were magnificent! They looked like something out of a postcard; they had white sand and crystal clear water. Our driver allowed us to spend an hour or so walking down the beach; I have yet to see any beaches quite as beautiful as the ones here. I would have thought that there would be more tourism here; the beaches seem even better than those in the Caribbean and a lot less crowded. I figured this must have been due to the political instability and thought of it being unsafe at the time. As we walked, I was surprised at just how many fishing boats we saw right off the coast. Our driver later explained that fishing, as well as livestock, are very prominent industries here in Somalia, and were indeed growing rapidly.
Fishing Boats off the Coast
On the way to the hotel, Bamidele asked how significantly AIDS had affected Somalia. The driver responded by saying that AIDS was not as bad here as it was in other parts of Africa, but that they do deal with a fair amount of tuberculosis. He then mentioned that he himself carried a form of tuberculosis. He described his condition as multi-drug resistant tuberculosis, or MDR-TB. He said his form would continue develop throughout his life, and eventually become more and more resistant to medical drug care, and thus more expensive. As he told the story of his condition I watched his eyes water, therefore we asked no more questions.
After arriving at the hotel, we both unpacked and showered for dinner. Around nine o’clock we went downstairs to eat in the hotel restaurant. I know eating in the restaurant of the hotel you’re staying in isn’t exactly adventurous, but there are not many restaurants in Hargeisa; plus the cab driver had recommended we eat there anyway. Needless to say after such a long day, I was starving. We traveled many miles today and I am not used to eating so late! However, Bamidele assured me that eating well into the evening was custom in Somalia, and that it was our only option. When we finally got down to the restaurant both of us ordered the lamb kabobs; a great choice. They were excellent! The meat and vegetables were grilled and cooked to perfection. We also ate an order of cambuulo, a local dish that contains asuki beans mixed with a combination of sugar and butter. The cambuulo was surprisingly tasty; the meal was all in all one of the best meals I’ve had thus far!
Our Lamb Kabob
After dinner, we made our way out into the streets, where a local band was playing. It was a very unique type of music; it seemed to me as a mesh between jazz and rock, but, oddly, they used tribal instruments! I never imagined such music could be made with indigenous tribal instruments, but they were extremely talented and amazingly easy on the ears actually. After listening to them play (and even dancing a little) we returned back to the hotel for a much needed rest.
Somalian Band
I have just climbed into bed and am pretty exhausted. But seeing so much coastline in one country was absolutely amazing and tough to get out of my mind; this country is beautiful. It has beaches as well as the beautiful Karkaa Mountains. Clearly, my first opinions on Somalia were dead wrong. I was quite worried about the significant amount of conflict in the government here, with the Islamic militants fighting against the current government troops. Yet thankfully, we have not come into contact with any repercussions of the fighting. I feel no danger in being in Somalia, despite the reports I have recently heard. We fly back out tomorrow from Bosaso and today’s drive was certainly a long one for just a single night. But the chance to see the gorgeous beaches and eat the delicious food was worth every minute. Talk to you soon!
Sarah's African Escapade 